Cream Biscuits


Crappy day?

Time for comfort food, yes? Whether your soup de jour is canned or homemade, these little puppies will make it shine. Now, listen up; do these with what I tell you to use, and make ’em like I tell y’all to make ’em, and they’ll be the lightest, fluffiest things you’ve ever had.

(I just did up a batch of minestrone, as it’s 35, windy, and raining sideways here…)

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2 Cups Whole Wheat Pastry Flour (Trust me; TRY THIS)
1-1.5 cups Heavy Cream (1/2 & 1/2 is fine, just not as much fun)
2 Tablespoons unsalted Butter
1 Tablespoon Baking Powder
2 teaspoons Agave Nectar or Honey
1 teaspoon Sea Salt

 

Preheat your oven to 425°F and set a rack right in the middle.

In a large mixing bowl, combine the flour, baking powder and salt. Blend with a fork to fully incorporate.

Combine 1 cup of cream with your agave nectar or honey. Stirring constantly, gradually add that to the dry mix in a thin stream.

As soon as the dough is holding together and feels moist but not too sticky, stop working it. If it feels dry, add more cream.

Transfer the dough to a clean, lightly floured surface and knead gently for one minute, and no mas; the key to light and fluffy is to not overwork the dough.

Form the dough into a square roughly 1/2″ thick. Cut into equal rounds or squares as you please, (this should make around 10).

Place the biscuits on something nice and heavy; stone baking sheet, pizza stone, or cast iron Dutch oven lid is perfect. Leave whatever you use ungreased and allow a couple of inches between each biscuit.

Melt the butter and brush tops and sides of each biscuit.

Bake for about 12 to 15 minutes, until nice and golden brown.

Serve nice and hot.

You’re welcome.

Latkes!


You say Latkes and I say… Well, latkes, Latkas, or Levitot, if you prefer the Hebrew. Any way you say it, a latke is a delicious little joy associated most often with Hanukkah, (Not the little dude from Taxi…) Fried foods are traditional during this celebration, commemorating the miracle of the oil that burned for 8 days when the Maccabees purified and rededicated the holy temple in Jerusalem. Not to be flippant, but any celebration featuring wonderful stuff like this is my kinda deal!

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These little gems are a breeze to make, and fit right in to the days after Thanksgiving for us Americans, as there is often a plethora of potatoes available. The best variety for latkes as far as I’m concerned is also the best fritte spud, the Russet. You can use a less starchy version like a Yukon Gold if you prefer, but stay away from the waxy reds and whites. While you can certainly make latkes with leftover mashed potatoes, there will a difference in the way they cook and the mouth feel that just isn’t quite right; best save those for turkey shepherds pie instead.

Now, the traditional accompaniment to latkes is applesauce. And since this is a special occasion, whip up a batch of housemade and let that marry flavors and cool while you’re building the latkes.

Use whatever apple you like best for eating, but please, please; no delicious, OK?

4 Apples of your choice
1/2 to 3/4 Cup Water
1/4 Cup Agave Nectar or Honey
1/4 teaspoon ground Cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon ground Nutmeg
Dash of Sea Salt

Peel, core and rough chop apples.

In a saucepan over medium heat, combine all ingredients and mix well.

When the mixture starts to simmer, cover and reduce heat to medium low. Cook for 15 to 20 minutes, until apples are very soft.

Remove from heat and hand mash with a fork or potato masher.

Pour into a glass bowl, cover and refrigerate.

 

Onto the latkes! First a few points of order…

For the flour, unbleached all purpose is fine, but try whole wheat pastry as well, it’s very nice indeed.

For the oil, stick to Sunflower, Canola, or Corn; they won’t add any heavy flavor notes to the latkes. And speaking of oil, oil temperature is critical to good results when frying; oil maintained at 350° F will ensure nice light, crispy results that don’t taste and feel soggy. Use a candy thermometer to track oil temperature, and always add foods to be fried sparingly to allow the temperature to stay where it needs to be.

5 medium Russet Potatoes
2 medium Sweet Onions
3 medium Eggs
1/4 to 3/4 Cup Flour
1 teaspoon Sea Salt
1/2 teaspoon fresh ground Black Pepper
1/2 to 3/4 Cup Oil

Peel your spuds and toss them into a large mixing bowl filled with enough ice water to completely submerge them.

Skin and trim ends from onions. Toss them into the ice water with the spuds.

Add oil to a frying pan over medium high heat; you’ll want about 1/4″ of oil or so. Have your thermometer handy for gauging oil temp.

Drain your spuds and onions and pat dry with a clean paper towel.

Grate the potatoes and onions with the finer side of a hand grater, or use a food processor or blender if you prefer. The hand method gives the best results for my mind. You want a nice, consistent size and blend of spuds and onions.

Check your oil and adjust heat so you’re sitting right at 350° F.

Place a platter lined with paper towels in your oven and preheat to Warm.

Toss the spud and onion blend into a colander lined with paper towels and gently squash the mix to remove excess water.

Dry off that large mixing bowl and toss your spud/onion blend in.

Lightly beat the eggs by hand and add them to the spuds and onions, then add the salt and pepper.

Add flour 1/4 cup at a time until the mixture holds together on its own, like a chunky pancake batter.

Fill a large soup spoon with a heaping hunk ‘o batter. Slip that puppy into the hot oil and gently squash it down into a cake. Fry one side for approximately 3-5 minutes, until golden brown, then and fry the other side for another 2 to 3 minutes. Look for that nice golden brown on both sides.

Now slide those little golden beauties onto the paper towel covered platter in the oven and keep fryin’. Add a little more oil if needed and watch that oil temp.

Serve nice and hot with the applesauce and a little dish of sour cream, crèma or crème fraîche.

Enjoy!

Herb and Spice Use 101


Adding herbs and spices,
A ‘Duh’ cooking moment?

Well, yes and no…
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(And yes, that’s really our cabinet…)

First off, disclaimer, this is a quick overview in response to a question from a reader, not The Big Picture view, K?

The first and most important answer to the question is this: Herbs and spices and herbs should be used to compliment the flavors of great food, not overwhelm them. In other words, all things in moderation, eh?

With that in mind, do think of salt and pepper as spices. They impact the flavor of foods and should not be left out of your thought process when deciding what to add, if for no other reason than not to add too much or too many. You can almost always say yes to salt, to some degree. Just a little shake or two of salt will wake up natural flavors and help others blend. Likewise, pepper adds a pleasant bottom note, a base to a flavor profile if you will, that’s more often worth it than not.

So, what else, if anything, do you need? The answer is again, moderation, most of the time. If you’re not making black mole, you don’t need 20 different spices and herbs. If you’re unsure what you need, but confident you do need some thing, try 2 and 3 component combinations that will enhance the flavor of the dish you’re building. It may be as simple as salt, pepper and lemon, or salt, pepper and garlic, or maybe garlic, lime and dill. Be selective, add a bit, allow the flavors to marry, then taste and see where you’re at.

Take for example, something simple like chili – what could and should go into your signature taste for that dish? We braise our meat in beer, add a dash of salt, onion, a little garlic and fresh cilantro to the base tomato flavor, and then use our house made chili powder, and that’s it.

The chile powder looks like this:
3 Tablespoons ground Chiles of your choice
1 teaspoon ground Cumin
1 teaspoon ground Mexican Oregano
½ teaspoon smoked Paprika
½ teaspoon ground Garlic

There’s a great example of a wealth of complex flavor fueled mostly by the food, enhanced with just a few choice herbs and spices.

The next question that gets asked a lot is when to add herbs and spices. There’s no one answer to this question; it depends on what you’re cooking and adding. Here are some general rules of thumb.
1. You can add herbs anywhere in the cooking process. In general, if you want the flavor note of the herb to stand out more, add it toward the end, and I f you want the flavor note blended with the dish more thoroughly, add it at the start.
2. Ground spices and dried herbs release flavors quite quickly; they can and will peak and diminish if added too soon. For instance, in that chili we’re making up there, we add the chili powder when there’s about an hour left to go in the process; that lets the flavors infuse, but also keeps them brighter than they would be if they were in there for hours on end.
3. Whole spices release flavor more slowly than ground or leaf form. This is why we toss Bay leaves, whole pepper corns, Juniper and stuff like that in when we’re making stock; they can and should do their thing through the whole process to maximize the flavor notes they add to the mix. Try tying these kinds of herbs and spices into a sachet of cheesecloth; that’ll make them really easy to fish out when their work is done.
4. When making uncooked foods like salads, salsas, and dressings, add spices and herbs an hour or two or three before serving; that’ll allow flavors to marry properly. For salad dressings, add the spices to the vinegar and let that sit for half an hour before adding the oil.
5. For marinades, try briefly and gently heating the seasoned liquid and then allowing it to cool completely; that’ll help release the flavor notes from the spices.

And then there’s the ‘How Much to Add’ question.
It’s real hard to form a viable general rule for the correct amount of spices and herbs to use, ’cause the strength of each differs widely, as does their effect on different foods.
I think it is a sound rule of thumb to say that, the stronger the herb or spice, the more sparingly you should employ it. For example, it doesn’t take a whole lot of Rosemary to go from herbed to overwhelmed, so go easy with those bad boys.
Keeping in mind that recipes are often written to the lowest common denominator, you may want to get a feel for altering them effectively, and more to the point, you probably want to get comfortable building your own ideas for scratch, right?
If you need a starting point and just don’t have a comfortable reference, try this:
Use 1/2 teaspoon per pound of meat or pint of sauce or soup.
For strong herbs and spices and hot chiles, start with 1/4 teaspoon and adjust as you see fit.
It’s always easier to add than take away…

BTW, don’t shake herbs and spices from the jar into what you’re cooking; you’re asking for a disaster when the whole thing cuts loose and falls in, and besides that, rising moisture can ding the potency of the herb or spice. Crush leafy herbs in your hand and then add them to your dish.

Finally, store your stuff in airtight jars, away from strong light, heat and moisture, and if you don’t use it inside of year, reevaluate if you need it, and consider getting some fresh stuff, too!

Vas-y!

Eben’s Cranberry Sauce


Here’s my perennial holiday sauce that everybody seems to love; they always ask for it, so I must be doing something right. Give it a shot!

1 12-ounce bag fresh Cranberries
3/4 Cup Water
1/2 Cup Agave Nectar (Sub Honey, Maple Syrup, or light brown Sugar)
1 large Navel Orange
1 Lemon
1 lime
1/4 teaspoon cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon Nutmeg
Shake of Sea Salt

Grate zest from all citrus; get all the nice bright orange, yellow and green, (Stop before you get to the bitter white part.)

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Juice lemon and lime. Peel orange thoroughly and rough chop the meat from that; set aside.

Bring water to a boil in a saucepan over medium high heat.

When water is boiling, add cranberries and return to a boil.

Reduce heat to medium and add citrus zest, orange, and juice.

Allow sauce to continue to boil, stirring occasionally until about 3/4 of the cranberries have popped.

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Add cinnamon, nut get and salt, stir in thoroughly.

Remove from heat and transfer to a glass or ceramic bowl. Allow to cool completely at room temperature.

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Cover and refrigerate until serving time. Will last in the fridge for about 5 days or so, if it makes it that long…

Enjoy!

Vinegar? Duh!


Duh! Cooking Thought of the Day

Now, I’m not promising that I’ll post one of these each and every single day, but… When I don’t have some thing else cooking, we’ll toss in some of these. The idea is kind of a combination of “why didn’t I think of that?” ideas, as well as stuff to get you thinking about your cooking and your kitchen. So, here goes;

Vinegar.
Duh, right?
Yeah?
Well then, how many you actually got in your kitchen?
I consider the minimum acceptable contingency to be White, Cider, Red & White Wine, Balsamic, White Balsamic, Malt, and Rice.
Wha? You stutter; why all that?
Weeellllllll, let’s see…

Plain white vinegar is made from grain alcohol and basically tastes nasty, but it’s good for extracting flavors from herbs and spices, and you can add a splash of it to milk for a very workable faux buttermilk substitute, and it’s great for cleaning.

Cider vinegar is our go-to for pickling and marinating; the slightly sweet note just goes well with lotsa things.

Red and white wine vinegars are also every day vinegars, great for dressings and adding dash to a sauce or gastrique.

Balsamic vinegar is indispensable for marinating, salad dressings and as a distinctive, sweet, complex finish to sauces.

Malt is the one for fish, far as I’m concerned, unless you want the lightest vinegar touch possible, and then you turn to rice.

Rice is the least acidic vinegar, and by the way, goes great with its root constituent for a nice little twist in flavor.

And speaking of, when you make flavored vinegars, always keep ’em in the fridge, ’cause nasty bacteria can form at room temp.

All vinegars should be stored tightly closed in a cool, dark place to avoid premature breakdown. They’ll last about a year after opening.

And speaking of last, citrus juices, especially lemon and lime, make great subs for most vinegars,
but not balsamic;
nuthin’ is a sub for balsamic…