Nah, not that – I mean chile roasting, smoking and drying time!
I have multiple batches going as I type, so just a teaser for now – how about Poblanos, smoked on the right, roasted on the left – I do wish y’all could smell this…
From basic how-to’s to fancy words and lots of stuff in between…
OK, this in, in response to our Sorta Readers Choice entry:
“OK, any and all would float my boat. But given that we have all kinds of misc. veggies right now, how about Fridge Pickles II. (would it work for beans, okra, broccoli, other odds and ends as well as cukes?)”
In a word, yup!
The major differences between fridge and ‘real’ pickles is speed of prep and longevity. Truth be told, we usually do both kinds when we’re in this mode, so that we have some to enjoy quickly, and more to hold on to for the long haul.
Here’s the scoop for our revised version of the noble fridge pickle that we’re enjoying now.
First off, another resounding YES in response to the question, can I pickle _______? Yes, you can and should try it. They’re tasty, quick, and add to a meal, and always a treat for the vast majority of guests! Beans, okra, broccoli, chiles, cauliflower (One of our big faves), Brussels sprouts (AMAZING!), baby onions or carrots, garlic, you name it!
Here we go, then:
1. Wash your jars in the dishwasher, or if by hand, do so really well and rinse thoroughly!
2. Prep your chosen veggies. You can cut and size veggies to whatever you prefer, keeping in mind that the bigger the cut, the longer it takes for everything to infuse.
3. For spicing, use a 1/2 teaspoon of dominant notes and a 1/4 teaspoon of minors. The pickling spice blend you saw in the pics earlier is why we call this Fridge Pickle II; the new blend includes a Pepper blend (Red, white,black, green) and whole coriander seed
as the dominants, with juniper seed, mustard seed, fennel seed, cumin seed, whole garlic cloves, and dill as the minors. Drop the blend right into the jars in equal measure.
4. Prep your pickling bath: We used 1 cup of white vinegar, but if you don’t mind or even like the color, you can use apple cider or any other vinegar that floats your boat. Use multiples of this basic ratio as needed for your batches.
Bring to a boil:
1 cup vinegar
1 cup good water, (Meaning, if it’s like our tap water, filter it first!)
1 Tablespoon non-iodized salt (Iodine makes things turn funky colors and adds a nasty metallic
taste, so don’t go there. We use pickling salt from our pals at Leener’s for ours, it is a better mousetrap!)
OPTION: 1 teaspoon of sugar if you like a sweeter pickle
5. Pour the hot brine over your goodies, completely covering the veggies.
6. Seal your jars – You aren’t canning, per se, so you can reuse old lids if their clean, or you can reuse pickle/sauerkraut/whatever jars too!
And there ya have it! You DO need to let things work their magic though, so resist the urge to sample for at least a week, and two weeks are better yet – The longer they hang, the better they get! Fridge pickles are good for at least 3 or 4 months, if they last that long. Any longer than that, it’s best to toss the remainder onto the ol’ compost heap and do a fresh batch.
Enjoy!
DISCLAIMER: Yes, I live in Texas. Yes, I own both a grill and a smoker. Yes, I understand the fundamental differences between grilling, smoking, and barbequing. That said, no, I ain’t a know-all expert on this stuff. There are plenty of gen-yoo-wine experts out there though, so if you hanker after the exact right way to make a Memphis style rub, get online and look it up! That said, keep in mind that you’re gonna find probably 20+ genuine Memphis rub recipes out there, each one claiming to be the right one, (Which First National Bank is the real one again?) Take it all with a grain of salt, (Pun intended…)
We love cooking flesh, we truly do. As you’ve probably noticed, there’s a fair amount of chicken, fish, pork, and beef running through these pages. You’ve probably also noticed that we rarely leave them alone. Some kind of rub, some form of herbs and spices, is almost always present, ‘cause that’s what we like. Now, as fate would have it, we feed quite a few other folks too, and it turns out they love what we do in this regard as well. So, thought we’d share some basic thoughts on the subject.
My bottom line on rubs is this: One or two dominant notes, with as many other minor notes as needed or desired, with a caveat – Don’t add so many or so disparate as to overwhelm the blend. That may seem an obtuse statement, but if you think about it, it makes sense. Garlic, onion, smoke, sugar, pepper, chile heat, clove, cinnamon, coffee, citrus, sage, rosemary, and on and on – They’re all great flavor notes, but any one out of proportion can and will muddle the mix at best and wipe it off the map at worst.
When we were up cooking in Walker, MN, recently, a regular stream of folks were coming by, and every few minutes one would say “You don’t measure.” It’s true, I usually don’t. Nothing unusual in that, many folks who cook a lot don’t use a spoon or cup much anymore. I can put a teaspoon if something into a bowl or grab 6 ounces of a protein by hand and be very close to right on, but I do this many times every day for a living: If you can do that comfortably too, then feel free to do so. If you can’t, then keep measuring until you can and want to, it’s no big deal either way. The point of this ramble is ratios and portioning. I don’t think of rub recipes in terms of making a cup, etc, I think of making enough for what I need it for, and that’s what I’d encourage you to do as well. The secondary benefit of this method is allowing experimentation. When you find something you like, write down, right away, what you used in what ratios and save it. Then you can recreate the recipe at will. I am not a fan of doing big batches of rubs, because it’s my feeling that anything stored like that will lose some oomph by being premixed for a long time. I always advocate buying spice and seasonings in whole form whenever possible and then grinding/mixing your own as needed. Doing so gives you bolder, fresher flavors and a more potent rub. You can therefore use less and gain more, which makes good sense for economy as well as flavor.
When composing a rub, pick your dominant notes and portion them 50% – 50% as a start point. Next consideration is how much to use. Make the amount big enough to count. If we’re going to prepare a rub for 3 or 4 nice 8 oz. T-Bone steaks, fer instance, I’d go with about 2 tablespoons each of my dominant notes and a teaspoon each of the minor notes.
Here’s my go-to basic beef rub, just the bare bone essentials.
2 Tablespoons Sea Salt
2 Tablespoons Pepper Blend
1 teaspoon Onion powder
1 teaspoon granulated Garlic
Put all that in a grinder, give it a whirl and off ya go. I’ll rub the flesh with a light coat of olive oil and then work the rub into it, coating thoroughly, about 30 to 45 minutes prior to grilling. Let it sit in the fridge and get comfy, then let there be fire…
Once again, depending on the meal desired, you could add a bunch more to that rub if you wanted. Subtract 1 teaspoon of sea salt and sub smoked salt. Add a teaspoon of smoked paprika. Add a ¼ teaspoon of chile powder. Add rosemary, sage, thyme, oregano, etc. Sub lemon juice for the oil as a rub adherent. Get the idea?
Notice the lack of sugar in that rub? Why is that? Simple question, simple answer – Cooking method. With steaks, we’re gonna cook hot and fast, so sugar is probably not what ya want, ‘cause it can and will burn under those conditions, and we don’t need to ruin good meat. Low and slow is the place for sugar, so let’s go there.
How about for pork? Pork is a prime low and slow cooking candidate. It also has a pretty good salty note to begin with, so sugar is a good candidate for a dominant note, as is a mild, red chile powder.
Here’s my basic rub for pork.
¼ Cup dark brown Sugar
¼ Cup mild red Chile powder, (We use Hatch and highly recommend it)
3 Tablespoons Pepper blend, (We like Black, Red, Green, White)
1 teaspoon granulated Garlic
½ teaspoon Onion powder
½ teaspoon Celery Seed
Into the grinder with them and give ‘em a spin. Same treatment as beef for application.
Again, there are bunches of variations, so use your imagination and go wild. From pulled to roast, that combo won’t let ya down.
How about chicken? Love, love, LOVE putting a nice rub on a bird and roasting that thing! Chicken lends itself to many variations of rub or marinade, so you almost cannot go wrong. If you google basic rubs for chicken, you’ll find most have sugar in them and that’s where I veer off slightly and lean toward citrus for sweet-tart notes instead. I feel the sweet notes are already there in the basic flesh, hence the other path…
Here’s my go-to chicken blend.
2 Tablespoons Sea Salt
2 Tablespoons mild Green Chile powder, (Hatch again!)
1 Tablespoon Pepper Blend
1 Tablespoon Smoked Paprika
1 teaspoon dried Lemon Peel
1 teaspoon dried Orange Peel
Grind, oil the bird and massage that rub right in!
OK, so basic fish rub? No can do, I say – Too much diversity! We can do a couple variations though. First off, what fish would you rub versus marinating? Good question! When I think of applying a rub to fish, it’s fish that we would grill, smoke, or barbeque, so we’re talking about salmon, fresh tuna, swordfish, and the like – Dense, firm fish that can stand up to bold flavors and those cooking methods. The one everyone loves best and wants to do most is Salmon, of course. M and I hail from the northwest, so we’ve had some exposure here. Salmon rubs, like regional barbeque, are dangerous turf; there are many variations and all of them are the best, capiche?
Here’s our go-to wet rub for Salmon:
2 Tablespoons dark brown Sugar
2 Tablespoons unsalted Butter
1 teaspoon Bourbon Whiskey
Juice from one Lemon
¼ teaspoon granulated garlic
¼ teaspoon sea salt
Slather onto your salmon work rub in and allow to marinate for 15 to 20 minutes prior to grilling.
For Firm fleshed white fish, (Swordfish, tuna, snapper, cod, etc), we like this rub a lot.
1 Tablespoon Sea Salt
1 teaspoon ground Pepper blend
1 teaspoon lemon peel or zest
½ teaspoon granulated garlic
¼ teaspoon dill
¼ teaspoon thyme
Lightly coat fish with olive oil and then work rub in and allow to marinate for 15 to 20 minutes prior to grilling.
Well, there ya have it – Enough ammunition to keep ya rubbin’ from here to Labor Day – Enjoy!
DISCLAIMER: Yes, I live in Texas. Yes, I own both a grill and a smoker. Yes, I understand the fundamental differences between grilling, smoking, and barbequing. That said, no, I ain’t a know-all expert on this stuff. There are plenty of gen-yoo-wine experts out there though, so if you hanker after the exact right way to make a Memphis style rub, get online and look it up! That said, keep in mind that you’re gonna find probably 20+ genuine Memphis rub recipes out there, each one claiming to be the right one, (Which First National Bank is the real one again?) Take it all with a grain of salt, (Pun intended…)
We love cooking flesh, we truly do. As you’ve probably noticed, there’s a fair amount of chicken, fish, pork, and beef running through these pages. You’ve probably also noticed that we rarely leave them alone. Some kind of rub, some form of herbs and spices, is almost always present, ‘cause that’s what we like. Now, as fate would have it, we feed quite a few other folks too, and it turns out they love what we do in this regard as well. So, thought we’d share some basic thoughts on the subject.
My bottom line on rubs is this: One or two dominant notes, with as many other minor notes as needed or desired, with a caveat – Don’t add so many or so disparate as to overwhelm the blend. That may seem an obtuse statement, but if you think about it, it makes sense. Garlic, onion, smoke, sugar, pepper, chile heat, clove, cinnamon, coffee, citrus, sage, rosemary, and on and on – They’re all great flavor notes, but any one out of proportion can and will muddle the mix at best and wipe it off the map at worst.
When we were up cooking in Walker, MN, recently, a regular stream of folks were coming by, and every few minutes one would say “You don’t measure.” It’s true, I usually don’t. Nothing unusual in that, many folks who cook a lot don’t use a spoon or cup much anymore. I can put a teaspoon if something into a bowl or grab 6 ounces of a protein by hand and be very close to right on, but I do this many times every day for a living: If you can do that comfortably too, then feel free to do so. If you can’t, then keep measuring until you can and want to, it’s no big deal either way. The point of this ramble is ratios and portioning. I don’t think of rub recipes in terms of making a cup, etc, I think of making enough for what I need it for, and that’s what I’d encourage you to do as well. The secondary benefit of this method is allowing experimentation. When you find something you like, write down, right away, what you used in what ratios and save it. Then you can recreate the recipe at will. I am not a fan of doing big batches of rubs, because it’s my feeling that anything stored like that will lose some oomph by being premixed for a long time. I always advocate buying spice and seasonings in whole form whenever possible and then grinding/mixing your own as needed. Doing so gives you bolder, fresher flavors and a more potent rub. You can therefore use less and gain more, which makes good sense for economy as well as flavor.
When composing a rub, pick your dominant notes and portion them 50% – 50% as a start point. Next consideration is how much to use. Make the amount big enough to count. If we’re going to prepare a rub for 3 or 4 nice 8 oz. T-Bone steaks, fer instance, I’d go with about 2 tablespoons each of my dominant notes and a teaspoon each of the minor notes.
Here’s my go-to basic beef rub, just the bare bone essentials.
2 Tablespoons Sea Salt
2 Tablespoons Pepper Blend
1 teaspoon Onion powder
1 teaspoon granulated Garlic
Put all that in a grinder, give it a whirl and off ya go. I’ll rub the flesh with a light coat of olive oil and then work the rub into it, coating thoroughly, about 30 to 45 minutes prior to grilling. Let it sit in the fridge and get comfy, then let there be fire…
Once again, depending on the meal desired, you could add a bunch more to that rub if you wanted. Subtract 1 teaspoon of sea salt and sub smoked salt. Add a teaspoon of smoked paprika. Add a ¼ teaspoon of chile powder. Add rosemary, sage, thyme, oregano, etc. Sub lemon juice for the oil as a rub adherent. Get the idea?
Notice the lack of sugar in that rub? Why is that? Simple question, simple answer – Cooking method. With steaks, we’re gonna cook hot and fast, so sugar is probably not what ya want, ‘cause it can and will burn under those conditions, and we don’t need to ruin good meat. Low and slow is the place for sugar, so let’s go there.
How about for pork? Pork is a prime low and slow cooking candidate. It also has a pretty good salty note to begin with, so sugar is a good candidate for a dominant note, as is a mild, red chile powder.
Here’s my basic rub for pork.
¼ Cup dark brown Sugar
¼ Cup mild red Chile powder, (We use Hatch and highly recommend it)
3 Tablespoons Pepper blend, (We like Black, Red, Green, White)
1 Tablespoon fine Kosher Salt
1 teaspoon granulated Garlic
½ teaspoon Onion powder
½ teaspoon Celery Seed
Into the grinder with them and give ‘em a spin. Same treatment as beef for application.
Again, there are bunches of variations, so use your imagination and go wild. From pulled to roast, that combo won’t let ya down.
How about chicken? Love, love, LOVE putting a nice rub on a bird and roasting that thing! Chicken lends itself to many variations of rub or marinade, so you almost cannot go wrong. If you google basic rubs for chicken, you’ll find most have sugar in them and that’s where I veer off slightly and lean toward citrus for sweet-tart notes instead. I feel the sweet notes are already there in the basic flesh, hence the other path…
Here’s my go-to chicken blend.
2 Tablespoons Sea Salt
2 Tablespoons mild Green Chile powder, (Hatch again!)
1 Tablespoon Pepper Blend
1 Tablespoon Smoked Paprika
1 teaspoon dried Lemon Peel
1 teaspoon dried Orange Peel
Grind, oil the bird and massage that rub right in!
OK, so basic fish rub? No can do, I say – Too much diversity! We can do a couple variations though. First off, what fish would you rub versus marinating? Good question! When I think of applying a rub to fish, it’s fish that we would grill, smoke, or barbeque, so we’re talking about salmon, fresh tuna, swordfish, and the like – Dense, firm fish that can stand up to bold flavors and those cooking methods. The one everyone loves best and wants to do most is Salmon, of course. M and I hail from the northwest, so we’ve had some exposure here. Salmon rubs, like regional barbeque, are dangerous turf; there are many variations and all of them are the best, capiche?
Here’s our go-to wet rub for Salmon:
2 Tablespoons dark brown Sugar
2 Tablespoons unsalted Butter
1 teaspoon Bourbon Whiskey
Juice from one Lemon
¼ teaspoon granulated garlic
¼ teaspoon sea salt
Slather onto your salmon work rub in and allow to marinate for 15 to 20 minutes prior to grilling.
For Firm fleshed white fish, (Swordfish, tuna, snapper, cod, etc), we like this rub a lot.
1 Tablespoon Sea Salt
1 teaspoon ground Pepper blend
1 teaspoon lemon peel or zest
½ teaspoon granulated garlic
¼ teaspoon dill
¼ teaspoon thyme
Lightly coat fish with olive oil and then work rub in and allow to marinate for 15 to 20 minutes prior to grilling.
Well, there ya have it – Enough ammunition to keep ya rubbin’ from here to Labor Day – Enjoy!
Looked at the national weather map and saw that, with few exceptions, the cool seats in the US right now are in the 80s, with lots in the 90s and 100s – Yikes!
Got me to thinking about The Number One thing we stress each and every day in restaurant work – Food Safety. While it’s a must in the business, it’s all too often lacking at home, so I thought we’d better revisit the ground rules and spell ‘em out in big letters. You can and should print this one and stick it to the fridge with one of those goofy magnets.
The Golden Rules
1. Keep it ALL clean! Wash your hands with hot, soapy water, actively, for at least 20 seconds. Do it before and after you work with food that has greater potential for bacteria, like meat, poultry and fish, before you move on to prepping something else. Wash and sanitize your cutting boards (Use a mild bleach solution on those – They’re semi-porous, so you really need to pay attention to cleaning them!), knives, and anything else that touched those potentially high risk foods before you prep something else with them. Does your sponge stink? Big clue – Toss it and use a fresh one; same goes for kitchen towels.
2. Don’t defrost or marinate at room temp. Ever… Best practice is to defrost in the fridge. If you must defrost really quickly, fill a bowl big enough to hold what you’re working with the coldest water you can get from your tap, immerse the food in the water and let it run as low as you can get it until it’s ready. NOTE: If, like it is here right now, you cannot get water colder than 70º F, do NOT use this method, period!
3. Use your senses and respect the Nasties. When food spoils, is it dangerous? The answer is, not always but maybe, so err to the side of caution. Bacteria like the same things we do, from food to comfy conditions; keep that always in mind. When food spoils, rots, etc, it looks, smells, tastes and feels off – Respect your senses and let it go if it ain’t right – I can guarantee you won’t get sick of you don’t eat it, eh? Bacteria need pretty specific conditions to thrive, and those have to do with temperature, time, moisture and PH level of the things they live on, AKA, our food. Know and consider the food you’re cooking and storing in regards to those attributes and act accordingly – Use the section of your fridge meant for butter, cheese, eggs, veggies and fruit – Modern fridges really can help control moisture levels as well as temp, so allow them to do their thing.
4. Understand and Respect the Food Temperature Danger Zone, and the safe handling practices associated with such. Bacteria love temps between 40º F and 140º F, so naturally, we want to strictly limit food from hanging out in that range. The mantra is ‘Keep cold food cold and hot food hot,’ and yes, it is that simple. Couple temp with time, and you’re ahead of the curve – Don’t let anything hang in the zone for longer than 60 minutes, and that’s a total time – So keep track, do the math, and between shopping, prep, service and leftovers, keep to the rules, (Yes, I said shopping – Think about it – You buy a steak, and by the time you get it home and in the fridge, how long has it been in your buggy and car, AKA, the danger zone? At least 20 minutes and probably more – Do NOT forget that when you’re working with it thereafter!
165°F+ – Most bacteria die within seconds
141°F to 164°F – Safe range for holding hot foods. Bacteria aren’t killed, but don’t multiply.
40°F to 140°F – Food Temperature Danger Zone! Bacteria thrive and multiply. Perishable foods spend NO MORE than one hour here!
33°F to 39°F – Fridge range. Bacteria aren’t killed, but they multiply relatively slowly. Food is safe here for a limited time.
32°F – Freezer zone. Bacteria aren’t killed but don’t multiply.
5. Use a thermometer and cook smart! You’ve read herein where I write about cooking to temperature, not to time; if you ain’t using a thermometer, and you’re not a seasoned cooking pro, how do you know what’s at what? You don’t… Buy and use a good cooking thermometer as well as a couple little, cheap instant read dudes. The top end of the Food Temperature Danger Zone, 140º F is not the temp at which bacteria die, it’s just the point at which they more or less stop multiplying. You need 165º F to kill most things that can hurt ya, like salmonella and e. coli, and that’s 165º F internal temperature – No thermometer, no sure, no good…
6. Store and reuse smartly. Put leftover proteins in a solid container, or wrap them really well, and put ‘em down low in the fridge where other stuff won’t get potentially dripped on. When reserving cold food, remember that Golden Hour; once time has elapsed, let it go, Luke… When reheating hot food, get it back up above 165º F internal temperature before you serve it, and, sad as it may seem, you only get one shot at that if you’re eating smart – No second reheats – So plan, portion and cook accordingly.
“What’d he say?”
“I think it was “Blessed are the cheesemakers”.”
“Aha, what’s so special about the cheesemakers?”
“Well, obviously it’s not meant to be taken literally; it refers to any manufacturers of dairy products.”
(With apologies to Monty Python)
This just in from the field:
OK, I love the queso fresco–nice and salty and sorta crumbly but still chewy, doesn’t melt fast. Feta (my heretofore fav, I’m part Greek, after all) is salty, crumbly, doesn’t melt hardly at all, but not chewy. So, Big E, can you give us a cheese tutorial, with some of the basics and what we can substitute in a pinch?
That was from our pals up north, who got to try fresh Queso Fresco for the first time during our gig in Walker, MN. So, of course, the answer is, Yep!
Now, I ain’t a cheese expert by any sense of the word, but I do know of some that I’ll share with y’all after covering some basics. The real bottom line of cheesemaking is taking water out of milk, and doing various things with the results – That’s it, in a nutshell. Think you can handle that? Sure, I knew ya could…
First and foremost, yes, you can make great cheese at home. Once you do, you may decide to stick with one genre for a good while before moving on: Just as cheesemakers often specialize in a single variety, so might you!
That said, we can make some general divisions to make things easier. Dividing cheese into soft, semi-hard, or hard, and is probably simplest. Soft cheeses that come to mind are ricotta, brie, or Camembert. Semi-soft examples would include queso fresco, or Dorset. Hard cheeses are what you buy most of in the store, everything from cheddar to parmigiano. Here again, the answer to the unasked question is yes, you can make all of those at home if you wish, and you’re going to find that what you can make is superior to what you can buy in most stores.
Uncooked cheeses are the easiest to start with for my mind; Queso Blanco or Fresco are examples of that genre. They are heated, but only mildly compared to the temperatures used for many other styles. Cream cheese or ricotta are also excellent choices.
The really nice thing about making a queso variety or ricotta is the fact that it’s so simple, trained weasels could do it. Ready to learn? Here it is:
1. Buy good, whole milk.
2. Heat the milk
3. Add acid
4. Drain
5. Eat
That simple enough for ya? Want to see that again, but with pictures? Go back to this post here and dig in!
Now in deference to accuracy, ricotta ain’t made from milk, it’s made from left over whey. So, in fact, you could make queso and then make ricotta with the leftovers from that, which would be most cool wouldn’t it?
My one caveat for home cheesemaking is this: Buy the best milk you can find. Use only whole milk. Get it as unprocessed as you can find and are comfortable with. Branch out and try goat or sheep’s milk if you can find it. Avoid anything that says ‘Ultra-Pasteurized,’ it will not work. Google local dairies, and make a field trip out of it.
Now, as I said, I ain’t no expert, so as far as specific recipes, this is where I get off. I’m making more than soft cheese now, but I know just enough to be dangerous, so it’s time to steer you to the experts. Besides, once you’re bitten, you’re gonna want some stuff so that you can expand your study and practice; from real cheesecloth to rennet to specific cultures, you’ll want to load up, so…
There are many, many cheesemaking suppliers out there. I’ve found Leeners to be among the best, well equipped and friendly, with great selection and prices. The New England Cheesemaking Supply Co. gets a nod as well; they’re friendly, funny and love to get the customer involved. There are links for both to the right of this monologue, so dive right in.
Finally, you’ll probably want at least one book on the subject for your library. I’ve looked through a bunch, and if I had to choose just one, it would be this: The Complete Idiot’s Guide to Cheese Making, by James Leverentz. As goofy as some of these titles are, this is a great book for beginners and semi-experienced folks alike.
Cheese On!