Saints Preserve Us


So, you’re bopping through the local farmers market and you see, lo and behold, late season, fresh corn on the cob, 8 for a buck. You wanna snap ’em up, but then your little voice of reason says, “Wait, that’s too much! What will you do with all that corn before it goes bad?”

Next time you find yourself in this scenario, slap that little dude off whichever shoulder he rides on and buy the produce, be it corn, beets, green beans, whatever.

Buy as much as you can handle and then preserve it for the cold months. Believe me when I tell you that, come January, corn that was local and fresh in September, properly preserved, is gonna shine all over that other stuff from God knows where.

It’s easy, fast, and actually fun, so let’s do it.

As we’ve been preaching here long and loud, there’s a bunch of way to keep stuff for later; whether you freeze, dry, can, pickle, ferment, or stick it in the root cellar just depends on what it is and how you’ll best be served down the line.

For corn, freezing makes great sense. If you do it right, you’ll have amazing fresh taste in the darkest months. Freezing takes no special equipment whatsoever. If you have a vacuum sealer, so much the better for product quality, but if not, no big deal, zip locks will do.

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The basics are as follows: prep, blanch, shock, package – that’s it, easy as pie!

Prep is as easy as the veg you’re working on. With corn, you need to decide whether you want cob on or off, of course. Personally, I see no reason at all to save the cobs; they do nothing for flavor, and you’ll have less work before you if you get ’em gone now. That said, to do the preserving work, all you need to do right off the bat is shuck.

Blanching means just a quick heating through; the idea here isn’t to cook, it’s to stop enzymatic activity that can cause issues with flavor and appearance, and to give a really good cleaning to your veggies. Blanching time is critical, ’cause doing it too little can be as bad as too much. Head over to the NCHFP for specifics on time and methods other than hot water. I lightly salt the blanching water and let the salt fully devolve before you toss the veggies in. You want a nice, even rolling boil for your blanch, so let it get fully up to temp as well.

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Stopping the limited cooking of a blanch is equally as important; that’s your shock, and you want to do that in an ice bath. Your bath should always be 50%-50% ice and water. Make your container big enough to completely immerse your food. The proper rule of thumb is to shock for the same time you blanched; that’ll assure that you put a proper habius stoppus in the process.

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NOTE: Official Pro Secret Revealed.
Blanch and shock is great process not only for preserving, but for general meal prep as well. In fact, it’s another great secret to restaurant cooking that you’ll do well to know and employ. Come on gang, you didn’t really think that your fave eatery individually prepped and cooked each and every portion of perfect green beans one by one for 100+ covers a night right after you ordered it, did you? No sirree, I’ll guarantee you that the reason yours and everybody else’s looked and tasted great was due to blanching and shocking; try it, you’ll like it, and your guests will wonder how come your veggies look so much better than theirs do at home….

OK, so once that’s done, it’s time to get the kernels off the cobs. Set yourself up a production station, and be careful,

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Last step, get ’em packaged for freezing. Air is the enemy of course, so vacuum sealing is best, but if you don’t have one, use ziplock bags and suck the air out manually; that’ll do a good enough job to get you throug the winter with nice fresh corn (or beans, peas, etc) at the ready.

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Enjoy!

Butternut Squash Bisque


Its officially fall in the Great Northwet and with an epic September storm rattling the house, it seemed like a good time to make soup. A day like this begs for something hearty and in keeping with the season, so naturally I thought of Butternut squash.

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The real beauty of a squash bisque isn’t the rich, satisfying flavor; it’s the fact that this wonderful stuff is so dang easy to build. Something this luxurious makes folks think you slaved for hours, when in fact it takes less than 30 minutes to make and is at its best eaten right away.

There are many takes on this stuff, a lot of which are a bit sweet for my taste. I prefer something savory that highlights the ability of squash to marry well with bold flavor notes, so I went for a vaguely Provençal feel to the spicing: Here’s how ya do it.

Butternut Squash Bisque, (Serves 6 to 8)

3 Cups Chicken Stock
1 Cup heavy Cream
1 Large Butternut Squash
1 medium Sweet Onion
1 Cup Celery, (Use leaves whenever possible)
1-2 Cloves Garlic
1 teaspoon fresh Rosemary
1 teaspoon fresh Pineapple Sage
2 Tablespoons Olive Oil
1/4 fresh Lemon
Dash hot chile flakes
Salt & Pepper to taste

When choosing butternuts at the store, look for nice evenly colored tan squashes; the sort of greyish-tan ones aren’t as ripe as the evenly toned, almost peanut colored specimens. Make sure the squash feels firm and has no lesions or soft spots – That’s your guy.

NOTE: If you’ve got time and want to deepen the flavors a mite, roast the squash, onion, celery and garlic for about 15 minutes at 325 F – It adds notable complexity to the overall flavor.

NOTE 2: You can do a very nice vegetarian version of this soup by using vegetable instead of chicken stock and soy milk for the cream.

Peel and slice the squash, then cut into roughly 3/4″ cubes.

Dice the onion and celery, mince the garlic, and chiffonade the herbs.

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In a stock pot over medium high flame, heat the olive oil thoroughly.

Toss in the onion and celery and sauté until the onion is just starting to turn translucent. Add the garlic and herbs, squeeze the lemon juice in. Continue to sauté for a couple minutes longer.

Add the chicken stock and bring the mixture to a rolling boil.

Throw all the squash cubes into the party; reduce heat to a low simmer and allow everything to marry and soften for about 20 minutes or until the squash cubes are all fork tender.

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The next step is blending, best done with a boat motor, (AKA immersion blender), but a stand blender or food processor will do just fine – Just be careful transferring hot liquids, naturally. Blend the mixture until you have a nice, even consistency.

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Add the cream and mix thoroughly.

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Now season to taste with the chile, salt and pepper, and there you are; serve nice and hot, with fresh local bread lightly rubbed with a garlic clove and toasted.

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E & M

Brine on, you crazy diamond


We’re enjoying wonderful salmon runs here in the northwest, which is heartening, to say the least. Goes to show that all the fishing restrictions, dam removals and other environmental mitigation steps do seem to have a positive impact.

Since we do get to catch some, it’s a great time to think about preserving for the cold months ahead.

Friends who like to smoke fish and meat asked for my take on brines, so here goes.

Before we tackle brining, we need to chat about salt a bit. Salts now come in many varieties and from many sources. This reinforces the need for a few basic consideration when using it.

The first and foremost variable is weight. Weighing different salts quickly reveals the fact that they differ widely, so using a spoon or cup as a measure can yield very inconsistent results. weighing is what you really want to do to get an accurate ratio, as that is the key to not only brine, but many other recipes using salt. In other words, while tossing in a pinch is fine for every day cooking, if you want consistent, accurate results in recipes and processes that really matter, you measure by weight, (as bakers well know).

Next comes source; fancy salts are great for finishing, but expensive and unnecessary for salt-intensive processes like curing. You’ll also want to avoid table salt which often has iodine and anti-caking agents in it that can discolor or add off-putting flavor notes.

Then there’s crystal size; larger crystals will dissolve faster in water, but take longer to do so when sprinkled on meats, so choose according to your primary need. And yeah, you are gonna end up with a bunch of salts in your pantry and that’s a good thing. As you’ve read here before, I like plain Kosher salt for brining, and I use flaked salt for pickling and corning.

Alright, on to brine!

Your basic brine ratio is 1 cup salt to 1 gallon of water.

Trust me when I tell y’all that, weighed out, that’ll be 10 ounces of salt for each gallon of nice, clean water. If you’re gonna use the kosher salts you’re likely to find at your local store, I’ll save you some time:
Morton Kosher salt = 7 ounces per cup
Diamond Kosher salt = 5 ounces per cup
Anything else you find or use, weigh it out and go from there.

And that is all you need to brine something for smoking, grilling, or barbecuing. Really, just that. Everything else, the sugar and spice and everything nice, is optional. The best southern barbecue I’ve ever had was treated with that basic brine and nothing else. Good meat, the right heat, maybe some smoke, bingo – perfection. That is a classic example of why to brine; it makes for juicy, tender, and flavorful food. Now lets look at some basics for the process itself.

Brining 101 Rules
1. Whatever you’re brining needs to be completely covered.
2. Brine in a non-reactive vessel; glass is always best.
3. Boil your water, add salt, herbs and spices, and allow the salt to dissolve completely.
4. Cool the brine completely before you use it, (don’t cook in the brine).
5. Always brine cold, in the fridge is best, of course.
6. The general timing rule of thumb is 1 hour per pound of product.
7. You don’t need to rinse brined foods unless you did an exceptionally heavy ratio, (Like corned beef, for instance), or if you see an obvious salt residue on your food. The exception to this rule is poultry; for a perfect bird, quickly rinse after brining, then wrap or place in a sealed container, in the fridge, for at least. 12 hours and as long as a day. You’ll be rewarded with glorious crispy skin and melt in your mouth bird.
8. Finally, water is optional; you can brine in any liquid you like, and you should definitely experiment. Just keep in mind that acidic liquids like vinegars or fruit juices can make for mushy flesh; nobody likes that, so plan and execute accordingly, (like much shorter brining time or appropriate ratios of acids to non, for instance).

Now lets cover some more specific brines.

For all of these recipes, the additional ingredients can be tossed right into the boiling water and salt.

Reduce heat to a simmer and allow everything to incorporate for 10 minutes; remove from heat and cool completely prior to brining.

Beef Brine
To the basic brine, add
1 teaspoon whole Pepper Corns
1/2 teaspoon whole Mustard Seed

Pork Brine
To the basic brine, add
1/4 Cup Brown Sugar
1 teaspoon whole Pepper Corns
1 teaspoon whole Mustard Seed
1/2 teaspoon whole Coriander Seed
1 – 2 cloves Garlic, rough chopped

Poultry Brine
To the basic brine, add
1/2 cup Apple Cider Vinegar
1 teaspoon whole Pepper Corns (Try Tasmanian Pepperberry!)
1/2 teaspoon Mexican Oregano
1/4 teaspoon Sage
1 – 2 cloves Garlic, rough chopped
3 – 4 Juniper berries
1 Bay Leaf, crumbled

Fish Brine
To the basic brine, add
1/4 Cup Brown Sugar
Juice and Zest of 1 Lemon
Juice and Zest of 1 Lime
Juice and Zest of 1 Orange
1/4 Cup fresh Cilantro, rough chopped
1 small Shallot, rough chopped
1 teaspoon whole Pepper Corns (Try Tasmanian Pepperberry!)
3 – 4 Juniper berries
1 Bay Leaf, crushed
Shot of Tabasco

Veggie Brine
To the basic brine, add
2 Tablespoons White Balsamic Vinegar
1 teaspoon whole Pepper corns
Juice and zest of 1/2 Lemon
Shot of Tabasco

So there ya go – Happy brining, and as always, if you’ve got good ones, y’all share!

Gold Medal Pickles


Back in the day, you cold count on fall as canning season, making sure summer bounty got put up for the long winter months to come. Now, not so much and that’s a shame, ’cause there’s no better time than tough ones to take advantage of preserving good food.

Arguably the signature thing to can is the pickle, and why not? Like good mustards, I don’t consider our fridge full unless we’ve got a good selection of pickles onboard, and what better option therein than your own?

Choose your style: the pickles we’ll do here are referred to as Fresh Pack, which means they’re cured for a relatively short time, then covered in hot brine and processed in a hot water bath for canning. You can also do fermented pickles, which are the ‘barrel style’ from those old sepia toned pics you see now and then. There’s also fridge pickles that are super quick and easy, and you can find recipes for those right here.

Of course many things other than cukes can be pickled, from beets to watermelon rinds; once you get the bug, you can dive right on in. The NCHFP is where you wanna go for further research.

I’ve done pickles on my own for over 30 years now. Most have been great, a few have been awful, and I’ve learned from both. I’ve also plucked some juicy thoughts and practices from other good picklers I know to offer y’all a nice, dependable base to start your own explorations from, (Thanks to Dan, Carla, Christy, Annzie and anybody I forgot), so here we go…

Picking your pickles:
All cukes are not created equally. So chose carefully when your ready to can. Its great if you hit the timing right and can go to a you-pick outfit, or have your local CSA fill your needs. I missed the heart of the season a bit, so I did a little phone and neighbor recon work, then got ours from a grower who not only kept the cukes gently refrigerated, but separated them into basic size groups as well. That said, I still only paid $1.25 a pound, which was fair enough for us.

Choose cukes that are glossy and dark green, with distinct and plentiful knobs on ’em, just like you want to see on your finished pickles. Avoid ones that look bloated, as they are likely past their prime and going to seed; of course lesions, dark or soft spots are right out.

Does size matter? Yeah, to some degree; the bigger the cuke, the longer it takes the brine and spices to infuse. Of course, you can cut your cukes into spears or rounds if you like and bypass any size concerns.

As far as amount needed goes, I chose 20 pounds of cukes in the sizes I wanted most, ended up rejecting about a pound of those after initial processing, and ended up with 18 quarts of lovely pickles; you can gauge from there how much you want to do.

Initial prep and brining:
If this is your first time canning, head on over to the NCHFP and read up on Principles of Home Canning and Using Boiling Water Canners before you start.

You’ll want a container big enough to handle your desired crop size; I use a 5 gallon bucket for ours and if you’re doing anything over about 8 quarts, you’ll want to do something similarly sized; avoid aluminum for this process; ideally you’ll want glass or stainless steel.

Make sure you’ve checked on everything you’ll need, from jars, rings and lids to vinegar and spices, so you’re truly ready to rock when your cukes are.

Toss your cukes into the sink and give the, a good rinse, as well as checking for bugs and other detritus…

For the initial brine, thoroughly dissolve 3/4 Cup of salt in 2 Gallons of water. Here, as with all things food, quality matters. If your tap water ain’t good to drink, don’t pickle with it. Use nice, fish water, not distilled. Salt should ideally be canning or pickling salt, which does not contain iodine or anti-caking agents; the iodine can impart a nasty, bitter taste to pickles and the anti-caking agents tend to make things cloudy, so they really are to be avoided. Read your labels carefully at the store, or head on over to Leeners and get the good stuff with no worries. You do not need to heat this brine, (which can also make pickles mushy), just make sure the salt is completely dissolved.

Trim all the blossom ends of your cukes by about 1/8″; the blossoms have an enzyme that can soften cukes, and nobody likes mushy pickles. You can leave the stem ends on so long as they’re not too long, (1/4″ or less).

Toss your cukes onto a bucket or non-reactive container, and makes sure your brine covers them completely. Use a plate and weight of some kind to make sure the floaters stay fully submerged. You should brine for at least 12 hours and up to 24 hrs.

When initial brining is complete, drain your cukes, fill your vessel with fresh, cold water and move on the fun stuff.

Pickling:
The ratios for pickling brine are somewhat flexible, depending on what you’re pickling. What I’ve got here is pretty uniformly reflected in my cohorts versions as well. Pickling spices are really wide open to interpretation; my fellow picklers choices run the gamut from nothing but salt to quite complex indeed; even dill isn’t a requirement unless you want dill pickles… Our spice blend is is a very nice blend of sweet, spicy and hot. Try this or make your own as you see fit.

The one secret ingredient I’d advise you to find and use is grape leaves; they contain tannins that can do wonderful work toward keeping your pickles crisp. Rinse leaves well and trim off any browned or curled edges, then set aside.

The same rule applies for water used here. Additionally, I’d strongly advise that you do not buy pickling spices from the grocery. Get your spices as fresh as you can, get them while whenever you can, and blend/grind your own.

Vinegar should be 5%, but it’s up to you what version you use. We like good apple cider vinegar for the light, fruity note it imparts, but you can use white if you like. Avoid heavily flavored versions and create your own signature pickle.

The ratios detailed here are for about 5 – 6 quarts of pickles; scale up or down as you see fit. You’ll end up with a bit too much brine, but better too much than not enough, and you can always fridge pickle something with the extra.

Pickling Brine:
2 Quarts Vinegar
2 Quarts Water
1/2 Cup Pickling Salt
1/4 Cup Sugar, (You can sub Honey, Agave Nectar, etc, but be aware of altered flavor notes)

In a non-reactive stock pot over high heat, combine all ingredients and bring to a rolling boil. Make sure sugar and salt are completely dissolved.

You may add a sachet of 1 Tablespoon of pickling spices to the boil if you like; use fine weave cheesecloth or a tea ball to hold ’em.

Pickling Spices:
1 Tablespoon whole Yellow Mustard seed.
1 Tablespoon whole Brown Mustard seed.
1 teaspoon mixed whole Peppercorns.
1 teaspoon whole Grains of Paradise.
1 teaspoon whole Coriander seed.
1 teaspoon whole Juniper berry.
1 Bay Leaf, crumbled.

Optional, add to each quart as desired:
(We use the garlic, ginger, clove, cinnamon and dill in all ours, and add the Jalapeños and/or dried chiles just for our hot quarts.)
1 clove fresh Garlic, peeled and skinned.
Fresh Ginger root, peeled and chopped.
1 whole Clove berry.
1/2 fresh Jalapeño chile, stemmed, seeded and deveined.
1″ Cinnamon stick.
1-2 small heads fresh Dill

Sanitize your jars in the dishwasher, or in water held above 165 F for at least 5 minutes. Rims and lids get the same hot water treatment; set them aside on a clean towel.

Do a quick chiffonade cut to your rinsed grape leaves, and add about 1/2 a leaf to each quart.

Drain your brined cukes and add equal measures of the pickling spices to each sanitized jar. Carefully pack cukes into your jars. You want them full, but not jammed in there so tight that brine and spices won’t be able to freely do their thing. Leave the cuke level in each jar about 1/4″ below the start of the jar’s neck.

Seal your jars with the sanitized lids and rims, hand tight as you can get ’em.

Canning:
Set your jars on a clean towel right next to your brine on the stove. Carefully ladle brine into each jar, leaving 1/2″ of headroom per jar.

Now it’s water bath processing time. You’ll want canning tongs to safely handle the hot jars; if you don’t have ’em, get ’em!

Have your canning pot filled with enough water over high heat such that a cycle of jars being processed will have at least 1″ of water above the lids.

Do not set jars on the base of your pot. Use a canning ring or basket to allow some space between the jar and the pot to minimize the possibility of jars shattering.

The recommended processing time for fresh pack Pickles in a boiling-water canner, per the NCHFP are as follows: water temperature MUST remain above 180 F throughout each processing cycle.
Process Time at 6,000 ft
Pints 10 min 15 20
Quarts 15 min. 20 25

Carefully remove jars back to the clean towel after processing. Listen and watch for the telltale little metallic pop or click that ells you your lids have properly vacuum sealed. You will see a distinct small center ring in each lid when it’s properly sealed. Jars that do not seal properly are not safe for long term non-refrigerated storage!

When your jars have cooled completely, check all lids and rings for tightness, then store your pickles in a relatively cool, dark place and allow the to do their thing for at least 60 days before sampling, (And 90 is better yet). Once they’re opened, they’re fridge only storage, of course.

Enjoy, share and compare!

E & M

Green Tomato Chutney


I remember with great fondness making Chutney in the fall with my mom. Hers was a sweeter recipe, with very little bite. I love the stuff, but what really floats my boat are the layers of flavor and the interplay between savory and sweet, and the cold of the sauce versus the spiritual heat of good chiles.

This recipe has amazing depth, great balance and a delightful, subtle back-of-the-mouth heat. It’s simple to make and absolutely delightful with chicken, pork, and rice dishes. It also helps solve the problem of what to do with too many tomatoes, especially if you get caught with a bunch of green ones at the end of the season.

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2 Cups Green Tomatoes, chopped and firmly packed
1 Cup Apple, rough chopped and well packed
1/2 Cup Brown Sugar
1/2 Cup Sweet Onion, chopped
1/4 Cup Apple Cider Vinegar
Rind of a small Lemon & Lime, fine grated
Juice of Lemon & Lime
2 Jalapeño Chiles, field stripped & diced
2 medium cloves Garlic, minced
1/2 teaspoon Sea Salt
1/2 teaspoon Coriander Seed, ground
1/4 teaspoon Cinnamon, ground
1/4 teaspoon Clove, ground

You may sub 1/2 teaspoon of dried red chile such as Tabasco or Cayenne if you prefer – If you do, add 1 diced small Green Bell Pepper to the mix.

If you buy whole spices as we do, combine salt, coriander, cinnamon and clove in a spice grinder and process until finely ground.

In a non-reactive saucepan over medium-high heat, combine all the ingredients and bring to a boil.

Reduce heat until mixture is just simmering.

Allow Chutney to simmer, uncovered, for about 45 minutes, stirring regularly, until the sauce thickens and absorbs pretty much all free moisture.

Remove from heat, pour into a glass bowl and allow to cool completely.

Refrigerate in an airtight glass container for up to 45 days.

Yields about 1.5 pints.

Can be done in volume and water bath canned for longer storage;
See this article at the NCHFP for more information.

Enjoy!

E & M

Tip Top Tri Tip


Ahhhh, yes, the noble Tri Tip cut!

Until Gundy told me, I’d didn’t know this was a west coast cut, I thought everybody was in on the fun! The tri-tip is a small triangular cut from down by the sirloin, usually about a pound to maybe three in size. It’s a very flavorful, lean and relatively cheap cut that deserves your attention. If its not readily available, approach your local butcher and ask them to cut you a couple.

Tri tip was relegated to mostly becoming burger or maybe cut into steaks when a California butcher decided to share the love with his customers. Lightly rubbed and grilled low and slow, sometimes on a rotisserie, the meat is slices thin across the grain and served nice and hot.

The real beauty of this cut is its versatility though; it’s a great choice for a grill night followed by a couple wonderful leftover meals.

Throw our basic beef rub on about thirty minutes before grilling for starters:
2 Tablespoons Sea Salt
2 Tablespoons Pepper Blend
1 teaspoon Onion powder
1 teaspoon granulated Garlic

Toss the tip onto the grill and go low and slow. Shoot for a 225 F to 250 F grill temp, and cook the roast with a single flip until you reach an internal temp of 145 F to 150 F; an internal probe thermometer such as you’ve seen us use here a bunch will be a big help.

Remove from the grill and allow to rest a full five minutes, then cut about 1/2″ slices across the grain and serve it up. You can do the traditional fare with this, but one of the best treatments I know is to provide everybody a nice, fresh crusty roll, and set out lettuce, onion, tomato, cilantro, sweet peppers, pickles, mustard, mayo and horseradish and let everyone make a big, hot, sloppy sandwich – Heaven!

And here’s the best part; the next day, the sky is the limit on great follow up fair. Cube up the remainder, toss it in a medium sauté pan and heat through with lime juice, garlic, cilantro and a little beer and you’ve got killer taco meat, or maybe go whole hog and make chili; it’s incredible!

Tri tip will soak up marinades like nobody’s business, so try something new for the next round.
Pop over to this Al Carbon recipe and do that up – your dinner crowd will give you a standing O.

Enjoy!