Blessed are the Cheesemakers


“What’d he say?”
“I think it was “Blessed are the cheesemakers”.”
“Aha, what’s so special about the cheesemakers?”
“Well, obviously it’s not meant to be taken literally; it refers to any manufacturers of dairy products.”

(With apologies to Monty Python)

This just in from the field:
OK, I love the queso fresco–nice and salty and sorta crumbly but still chewy, doesn’t melt fast. Feta (my heretofore fav, I’m part Greek, after all) is salty, crumbly, doesn’t melt hardly at all, but not chewy. So, Big E, can you give us a cheese tutorial, with some of the basics and what we can substitute in a pinch?

That was from our pals up north, who got to try fresh Queso Fresco for the first time during our gig in Walker, MN. So, of course, the answer is, Yep!

Now, I ain’t a cheese expert by any sense of the word, but I do know of some that I’ll share with y’all after covering some basics. The real bottom line of cheesemaking is taking water out of milk, and doing various things with the results – That’s it, in a nutshell. Think you can handle that? Sure, I knew ya could…

First and foremost, yes, you can make great cheese at home. Once you do, you may decide to stick with one genre for a good while before moving on: Just as cheesemakers often specialize in a single variety, so might you!

That said, we can make some general divisions to make things easier. Dividing cheese into soft, semi-hard, or hard, and is probably simplest. Soft cheeses that come to mind are ricotta, brie, or Camembert. Semi-soft examples would include queso fresco, or Dorset. Hard cheeses are what you buy most of in the store, everything from cheddar to parmigiano. Here again, the answer to the unasked question is yes, you can make all of those at home if you wish, and you’re going to find that what you can make is superior to what you can buy in most stores.

Uncooked cheeses are the easiest to start with for my mind; Queso Blanco or Fresco are examples of that genre. They are heated, but only mildly compared to the temperatures used for many other styles. Cream cheese or ricotta are also excellent choices.

The really nice thing about making a queso variety or ricotta is the fact that it’s so simple, trained weasels could do it. Ready to learn? Here it is:
1. Buy good, whole milk.
2. Heat the milk
3. Add acid
4. Drain
5. Eat

That simple enough for ya? Want to see that again, but with pictures? Go back to this post here and dig in!

Now in deference to accuracy, ricotta ain’t made from milk, it’s made from left over whey. So, in fact, you could make queso and then make ricotta with the leftovers from that, which would be most cool wouldn’t it?

My one caveat for home cheesemaking is this: Buy the best milk you can find. Use only whole milk. Get it as unprocessed as you can find and are comfortable with. Branch out and try goat or sheep’s milk if you can find it. Avoid anything that says ‘Ultra-Pasteurized,’ it will not work. Google local dairies, and make a field trip out of it.

Now, as I said, I ain’t no expert, so as far as specific recipes, this is where I get off. I’m making more than soft cheese now, but I know just enough to be dangerous, so it’s time to steer you to the experts. Besides, once you’re bitten, you’re gonna want some stuff so that you can expand your study and practice; from real cheesecloth to rennet to specific cultures, you’ll want to load up, so…

There are many, many cheesemaking suppliers out there. I’ve found Leeners to be among the best, well equipped and friendly, with great selection and prices. The New England Cheesemaking Supply Co. gets a nod as well; they’re friendly, funny and love to get the customer involved. There are links for both to the right of this monologue, so dive right in.

Finally, you’ll probably want at least one book on the subject for your library. I’ve looked through a bunch, and if I had to choose just one, it would be this: The Complete Idiot’s Guide to Cheese Making, by James Leverentz. As goofy as some of these titles are, this is a great book for beginners and semi-experienced folks alike.

Cheese On!

Serious Mac & Cheese


OK, have had a ton of requests for more detail on comfort food faves and mac and cheese as I do it in particular, so here ya go!

If and when we do a restaurant, mac & cheese will be a mainstay, and I’ll guarantee in advance that, while it likely will never be the same twice, it’ll always make you come back for more. Here’s my secret, honed over decades of serious research…

The Roux

3 Tablespoons unsalted Butter.
3 Tablespoons Flour.
3 cups Milk.

Roux is the key to sauce, as far as I am concerned. I have an idiosyncrasy about roux making that was shown to me many moons ago by a French Chef in a French kitchen, and it was sooo durn good, I’ve done it this way ever since. The bottom line is this; never break the roux. What I mean is this: You’re adding fat and starch, (Well, gluten), to liquid to make the resultant sauce thicker. Therefore, you want the chemistry that adds those qualities maintained. The how-to is simple: As you mix flour with butter, and then add liquid, do it slowly enough that you start with almost a paste, and maintain that stretchy, thick consistency throughout your mixing. Add milk slowly, a little at a time, incorporate, allow it to get back up to heat and repeat until all the liquid is added – In other words, do not mix butter and flour and then just dump in milk – Doing that defetas the purpose of the roux completely, for my mind… The other consideration is the shade of your roux. The beauty of roux to me is the simplicity. When roux is cooking alone, it’s that sweet, bready, rich theme we want to exploit. Personally, I like my roux for stuff like this to be nut brown, the color of done shortbread, before I start adding milk. You do what smells, looks, tastes and feels best to you! Hopefully, this series of pics will illustrate my ramblings adequately…

The Cheese

2 to 3 cups of your choice, shredded.

Here’s where that statement above about my stuff never being quite the same twice comes to fruition. Put simply, I open the fridge and use what’s there and floats my boat at the moment. If you buy and eat good cheese, you quite simply cannot fail in this regard. And frankly, why do the same old thing all the time? variety is the spice of life, so mix it up! If you come upon a really spectacular blend, (And you will), write it down, take pics and do it again, by all means, but first, ya gotta discover!

Tonight, I found a bunch of candidates and decided upon a four cheese blend. I went with Swiss and Jack as dominant notes, (About a cup each), and extra sharp yellow cheddar with 2 year old WSU white Cheddar as minors, and there’s your cheese chord!

Add cheese about a half cup at a time and allow to incorporate and heat thoroughly before ya throw in more.

Once that’s all in, it’s seasoning time. Here again, other than salt and pepper, there are no hard and fast rules. Do what smells, looks, feels and tastes right! Tonight, salt, pepper, garlic, onion powder, smoked paprika and a shake of dried Tabasco chile was the stuff. Blend well and then take your sauce off the heat, and start into pasta.

Pasta

Use roughly 12 ounces of what you like

Yep, that’s it. We don’t use long and skinny stuff, for obvious reasons, but you could if you like it! We like shells a lot because they act like little boats for the sauce, but macaroni, fusilli, rotini, bowtie, radiatori, ruote, whatever floats your boat, throw it in!

Make sure your water is well salted, (As in about like seawater) and lightly oiled. Boil pasta to firm al dente, then drain and toss to remove al excess water.

Throw your pasta into a lightly oiled baking dish, add the sauce and mix well. Don’t put so much pasta in there that things will be dry. Mac and cheese needs to be luxurious, decadent, rich and creamy, not dry and pasty! I top with something, again, whatever floats my boat, but I always top. The nice, crunchy crust is a great addition and it helps seal in the casserole too. I’ve used everything from panko bread crumbs to crushed jalapeno potato chips and everything in between; again, it’s about what you have and that feels good!

To bake or not to bake; there ain’t any question…
Bake, plain and simple. 350 F for 30 minutes, preheat your oven first, of course. Baking infuses and blends flavors, textures and smells. Do it – Eating something like this without doing so is like taking the middle out of an Oreo, throwing it away and just munching the wafer – Good, but not right…

See? doesn’t that look incredible?!
Yes. Yes it does…

Pair It

Now, I am the first to say that stuff this good don’t need nuthin’ to help it, but that would be wrong. Pair your mac with a nice, light salad. That will provide a counterpoint to the incredible richness, help clear your palate, let you eat and appreciate everything more, and that’s good! Monica did a beautiful job with fresh greens, onion, pickled radish, homegrown tomatoes and cucumbers, dusted with dill, and tossed with a light balsamic vinaigrette – Perfect counterpoint!

And there you have it – The cat’s outta the bag – Bon appetit!

Serious Mac & Cheese


OK, have had a ton of requests for more detail on comfort food faves and mac and cheese as I do it in particular, so here ya go!

If and when we do a restaurant, mac & cheese will be a mainstay, and I’ll guarantee in advance that, while it likely will never be the same twice, it’ll always make you come back for more. Here’s my secret, honed over decades of serious research…

The Roux

3 Tablespoons unsalted Butter.
3 Tablespoons Flour.
3 cups Milk.

Roux is the key to sauce, as far as I am concerned. I have an idiosyncrasy about roux making that was explained to me many moons ago by a rather famous French Chef, and it was sooo durn good, I’ve done it this way ever since. The bottom line is this; never break the roux. What I mean is this: You’re adding fat and starch, (Well, gluten), to liquid to make the resultant sauce thicker. Therefore, you want the chemistry that adds those qualities maintained. The how-to is simple: As you mix flour with butter, and then add liquid, do it slowly enough that you start with almost a paste, and maintain that stretchy, thick consistency throughout your mixing. Add milk slowly, a little at a time, incorporate, allow it to get back up to heat and repeat until all the liquid is added – In other words, do not mix butter and flour and then just dump in milk – Doing that defetas the purpose of the roux completely, for my mind… The other consideration is the shade of your roux. The beauty of roux to me is the simplicity. When roux is cooking alone, it’s that sweet, bready, rich theme we want to exploit. Personally, I like my roux for stuff like this to be nut brown, the color of done shortbread, before I start adding milk. You do what smells, looks, tastes and feels best to you! Hopefully, this series of pics will illustrate my ramblings adequately…

The Cheese

2 to 3 cups of your choice, shredded.

Here’s where that statement above about my stuff never being quite the same twice comes to fruition. Put simply, I open the fridge and use what’s there and floats my boat at the moment. If you buy and eat good cheese, you quite simply cannot fail in this regard. And frankly, why do the same old thing all the time? variety is the spice of life, so mix it up! If you come upon a really spectacular blend, (And you will), write it down, take pics and do it again, by all means, but first, ya gotta discover!

Tonight, I found a bunch of candidates and decided upon a four cheese blend. I went with Swiss and Jack as dominant notes, (About a cup each), and extra sharp yellow cheddar with 2 year old WSU white Cheddar as minors, and there’s your cheese chord!

Add cheese about a half cup at a time and allow to incorporate and heat thoroughly before ya throw in more.

Once that’s all in, it’s seasoning time. Here again, other than salt and pepper, there are no hard and fast rules. Do what smells, looks, feels and tastes right! Tonight, salt, pepper, garlic, onion powder, smoked paprika and a shake of dried Tabasco chile was the stuff. Blend well and then take your sauce off the heat, and start into pasta.

Pasta

Use roughly 12 ounces of what you like

Yep, that’s it. We don’t use long and skinny stuff, for obvious reasons, but you could if you like it! We like shells a lot because they act like little boats for the sauce, but macaroni, fusilli, rotini, bowtie, radiatori, ruote, whatever floats your boat, throw it in!

Make sure your water is well salted, (As in about like seawater) and lightly oiled. Boil pasta to firm al dente, then drain and toss to remove al excess water.

Throw your pasta into a lightly oiled baking dish, add the sauce and mix well. Don’t put so much pasta in there that things will be dry. Mac and cheese needs to be luxurious, decadent, rich and creamy, not dry and pasty! I top with something, again, whatever floats my boat, but I always top. The nice, crunchy crust is a great addition and it helps seal in the casserole too. I’ve used everything from panko bread crumbs to crushed jalapeno potato chips and everything in between; again, it’s about what you have and that feels good!

To bake or not to bake; there ain’t any question…
Bake, plain and simple. 350 F for 30 minutes, preheat your oven first, of course. Baking infuses and blends flavors, textures and smells. Do it – Eating something like this without doing so is like taking the middle out of an Oreo, throwing it away and just munching the wafer – Good, but not right…

See? doesn’t that look incredible?!
Yes. Yes it does…

Pair It

Now, I am the first to say that stuff this good don’t need nuthin’ to help it, but that would be wrong. Pair your mac with a nice, light salad. That will provide a counterpoint to the incredible richness, help clear your palate, let you eat and appreciate everything more, and that’s good! Monica did a beautiful job with fresh greens, onion, pickled radish, homegrown tomatoes and cucumbers, dusted with dill, and tossed with a light balsamic vinaigrette – Perfect counterpoint!

And there you have it – The cat’s outta the bag – Bon appetit!

Green Chile & Pork Enchiladas


Green Chile & Pork Enchiladas

There’s not much more seminal Tex-Mex than a nice enchilada. My fave combo for this is pork and green chile, hands down – There’s something about it that’s juuuuust right.

Chile sauce is something we make and can for later on; you need to pressure can to do that, but it is well worth it and another great way to take advantage of the annual Hatch chile release! This sauce goes great with enchiladas, tacos, burritos, chimichangas, huevos, and on and on…

Classic Green Chile Sauce

5 – 7 Hatch green chiles, roasted, field stripped, skinned and rough chopped.
1 cup diced sweet onion.
1-2 cloves garlic, peeled and minced.
1-2 sprigs cilantro or ½ teaspoon coriander.
2 cups chicken stock.
1 teaspoon flour.
1 teaspoon butter.
Salt and pepper to taste.
2-3 tablespoons vegetable oil.

Heat oil to medium high in a deep sauté pan. Sauté onion until it start to become translucent. Add garlic and briefly sauté. Add chiles, cilantro, and stock and simmer for about half an hour. Remove pan from heat. Pour mixture into blender and blend until you hit the consistency you like. Heat flour and butter in sauté pan. When roux is well blended and heated through, pour blended mixture back in and allow to blend and thicken. Remove from heat and allow to sit covered.

For the enchilada filling, I cut the pork thin and then diced it. That went in to a deep sauté pan, was lightly browned, and then doused with enchilada sauce and allowed to simmer for about ½ hour on low heat. I diced up more onion, black olives, some of our tomatoes, and shredded some jack cheese. I used lovely flour tortillas from a local tortillaria, since I was too lazy to make my own today… I also did up some plain red beans and rice, with no seasoning other than a little salt.

Finally, I put everything in a production line, did some assembly and off we went.

I left plating to your imagination, because I was way hungry. I assure you that none of those poor things survived the night! (FYI, we like to bed these on shredded lettuce tossed with a little more cilantro, salt and pepper.)

Pickling Two – The Sequel…


Had a bunch of gorgeous jalapenos hanging around the fridge, (Summer vacation, you know – They were bored because “there’s nothing for them to do” – Sheesh…). So I did a variation of the quick pickle brine recipe I posted the other day for these beauties – It’s been three days tonight, so they’re coming out with some green chile & chicken enchiladas for dindin!

Pickled Jalapenos

4 Cups Jalapenos, whole, cleaned and topped.
2 Cups white vinegar.
2 teaspoons sea salt.
1 teaspoon granulated sugar.
1 Tablespoon whole peppercorns, (I used our favorite black/red/green/white blend).
1 teaspoon of Dill.
3 Cloves Garlic, peeled and quartered.

Bring vinegar and seasonings to a low boil.

Place Jalapenos in a clean, glass container.

Pour hot solution over veggies to cover. Refrigerate at least 24 hours, and 3 days are even better. Kept refrigerated, they’ll last a good couple of weeks, if you don’t devour them first, of course!

We’ll let ya know the verdict after dinner!